Most dining coverage ranks rooms. This issue asks a plainer question: where would you sit? At a sushi counter on East 75th Street, at a charcoal grill on 32nd Street, in a hotel dining room under sculpted trees, or on a stool at a tortilla griddle in downtown Los Angeles.
We start at the counter, where Nikki Zheng has priced one of the city’s most exacting meals at about half of what New York omakase usually costs. Then we climb into Koreatown, walk into the big rooms of the West Side, stop at the tables priced to bring you back, and cross to Los Angeles, where Little Tokyo’s counters and the Arts District’s long tables are a short walk apart.