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Kohada at Sushi Akira, Upper East Side

September 2026New York + Los Angeles51 stories

Dine Digest

Every seat in the house.

An omakase counter at about half the going rate, a Koreatown tasting room sixteen floors up, and one Los Angeles address where a $$ pizzeria and a two-star kaiseki counter share the building.

Kohada at Sushi Akira, Upper East Side. Photo: Sushi Akira, via MICHELIN Guide

From the editors

Most dining coverage ranks rooms. This issue asks a plainer question: where would you sit? At a sushi counter on East 75th Street, at a charcoal grill on 32nd Street, in a hotel dining room under sculpted trees, or on a stool at a tortilla griddle in downtown Los Angeles.

We start at the counter, where Nikki Zheng has priced one of the city’s most exacting meals at about half of what New York omakase usually costs. Then we climb into Koreatown, walk into the big rooms of the West Side, stop at the tables priced to bring you back, and cross to Los Angeles, where Little Tokyo’s counters and the Arts District’s long tables are a short walk apart.

Every restaurant here links to its MICHELIN Guide listing, checked the week this issue closed, and every distinction and price band is the guide’s own. Where our earlier copy disagreed with the listing, we corrected the copy; where a listing could not be found, the story says so.

The Dine Digest desk, New York and Los Angeles

In this issue · 6 chapters

Chapter 01

The Counter

Seven Manhattan counters where the chef is the room, starting with the omakase that costs about half the usual price of admission.

7 stories

Chapter partnerOpen · unsoldHow partnerships workOne labelled placement per chapter. No brand sponsors this issue; the slot is open.

Nikki Zheng makes precision feel like an invitation.

At Sushi Akira, about a dozen seats, eighteen courses and a bill under $200 turn New York’s most intimidating format into a welcome.

The counter before service — Sushi Akira
Sushi Akira · Upper East SideThe counter before service.Photo: Sushi Akira, via MICHELIN Guide

The MICHELIN Guide calls Sushi Akira New York’s first female-led, MICHELIN-recommended omakase. Zheng opened it in 2025 after years at Masa, Tsukimi and Sushi Nakazawa, and she kept the thing those counters are known for, the discipline, while dropping the thing they are feared for, the price.

On East 75th Street on the Upper East Side, Sushi Akira seats about a dozen guests at an intimate blonde wood counter, bathed in the soft warm glow of rice paper sconces.

Chef Nikki Zheng, leading Manhattan's first female-helmed Michelin-recommended omakase, balances centuries of Edomae discipline with personal warmth: custom akazu-seasoned warm shari, wild kohada cured with red vinegar, and binchotan-kissed kinmedai.

If I’m a guest, I want to feel comfortable — it’s very important.

Nikki Zheng, to the MICHELIN Guide, August 2026

The experience feels like a private salon rather than a hushed test of connoisseurship; Chef Zheng explains the aging curves and ocean currents of each piece with infectious generosity.

Chef Nikki Zheng at her counter — Sushi Akira
Sushi Akira · Upper East SideChef Nikki Zheng at her counter.Photo: Sushi Akira, via MICHELIN Guide
The day’s fish, laid out in the box — Sushi Akira
Sushi Akira · Upper East SideThe day’s fish, laid out in the box.Photo: Sushi Akira, via MICHELIN Guide

Priced under $200 in an omakase market that routinely pushes $400, Sushi Akira proves that elite sushi craft can feel inclusive and welcoming without lowering its standards.

  • Nikki ZhengChef and owner, Sushi Akira; trained at Masa, Tsukimi and Sushi Nakazawa

At a glance

  • MICHELIN Guide selection
  • Price band $$$$
  • Japanese
  • 317 E. 75th St., New York
Sources 2
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Sushi Akira · checked Sep 28, 2026
  2. MICHELIN Guide · Meet the Chef Behind New York’s First Female-Led MICHELIN-Recommended Omakase (Aug 11, 2026) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.02Odo hides a two-star counter behind a cocktail bar.Zheng lowers the price of a counter. Odo, down on West 20th Street, shows what the counter becomes at two stars.

Odo hides a two-star counter behind a cocktail bar.

Hiroki Odo’s fourteen seats run on kaiseki pacing and downtown energy at once.

From Odo’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Odo
Odo · FlatironFrom Odo’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Odo, via MICHELIN Guide

Hidden behind an unassuming cocktail gallery on West 20th Street, Odo reveals a secret 14-seat dining sanctuary adorned with museum-grade Arita ceramics and burnished cedar.

Chef Hiroki Odo constructs a seasonal poem of Japanese terroir: seasonal dashi infused with fresh shaved bonito flakes, wild Maine lobster tempura with sea salt, and binchotan-charred A5 Miyazaki beef over smoked matsutake rice.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Hiroki OdoChef, Odo
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Odo (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.03Kosaka keeps the West Village quiet enough to hear the knife.Odo builds a season course by course. Kosaka, in the West Village, builds it one piece of fish at a time.

Kosaka keeps the West Village quiet enough to hear the knife.

Ten seats, kelp-cured sea bream and a counter that values patience over theatre.

From Kosaka’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Kosaka
Kosaka · West VillageFrom Kosaka’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Kosaka, via MICHELIN Guide

On a quiet, tree-shaded West Village corner, Kosaka's frosted glass and dark timber facade shield an intimate 10-seat sushi counter from neighborhood bustle.

Chef Yoshihiko Kousaka executes uncompromising Edomae sushi: wild Japanese sea bream cured between kelp sheets, torched black throat seaperch with sea salt, and otoro aged to melt-in-the-mouth tenderness.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Yoshihiko KousakaChef, Kosaka
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Kosaka (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.04Noz 17 seats seven and asks for your full attention.Kosaka is hushed. Noz 17, in Chelsea, is hushed and even smaller.

Noz 17 seats seven and asks for your full attention.

Aged fish, red-vinegar kohada and meditative stillness on West 17th Street.

From Noz 17’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Noz 17
Noz 17 · ChelseaFrom Noz 17’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Noz 17, via MICHELIN Guide

Behind an unmarked subterranean door on a quiet Chelsea side street, Noz 17 holds just seven guests at a hand-carved cedar counter lit by delicate rice-paper lanterns.

Chef Junichi Matsuzaki executes uncompromising fish aging: wild kohada cured in red vinegar, aged shima aji with fresh grated wasabi, and simmered octopus yielding like butter.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Junichi MatsuzakiChef, Noz 17
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Noz 17 (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.05Noda proves omakase can be glamorous and strict at once.Noz 17 strips the room back to wood and rice. Noda does the opposite and still keeps the purism.

Noda proves omakase can be glamorous and strict at once.

A jewel-box room under a golden dome, with caviar, uni and aged otoro at a semicircular counter.

The round counter room — Noda
Noda · FlatironThe round counter room.Photo: Noda, via MICHELIN Guide

Designed by Ken Fulk, Noda greets diners through a discreet velvet curtain into a circular jewel-box room centered around a dramatic 10-seat semicircular counter beneath a golden dome.

Master Chef Shigeyuki Tsunoda commands the counter: golden Kaluga caviar atop warm steamed abalone, Hokkaido uni handrolls wrapped in crisp nori, and dry-aged otoro brushed with aged nikiri.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Shigeyuki TsunodaChef, Noda
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Noda (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.06At Brooklyn Fare, the brigade has nowhere to hide.Noda makes the room part of the show. At Brooklyn Fare, the room is the kitchen itself.

At Brooklyn Fare, the brigade has nowhere to hide.

A steel horseshoe counter around a silent kitchen, and two stars earned in full view.

From Chef\u0027s Table at Brooklyn Fare’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Chef\u0027s Table at Brooklyn Fare
Chef\u0027s Table at Brooklyn Fare · Midtown WestFrom Chef\u0027s Table at Brooklyn Fare’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Chef\u0027s Table at Brooklyn Fare, via MICHELIN Guide

Tucked behind a quiet grocery entrance in Midtown West, diners are ushered into a dramatic, darkened theater dominated by a gleaming stainless-steel horseshoe counter encircling a silent brigade.

The kitchen commands elite seafood craft: Norwegian langoustines roasted in foaming brown butter, warm brioche cubes crowned with Santa Barbara sea urchin and black truffles, and Miyazaki A5 Wagyu seared over binchotan.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Chef\u0027s Table at Brooklyn Fare (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.07Papa San makes the counter fast and cheerful.Brooklyn Fare is the most formal counter in the chapter. The last is the least: a handroll and skewer counter a few blocks south.

Papa San makes the counter fast and cheerful.

Handrolls, chicken skewers and chilled cucumber on West 34th Street, served elbow-to-elbow.

From Papa San’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Papa San
Papa San · Hudson YardsFrom Papa San’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Papa San, via MICHELIN Guide

On West 34th Street by Hudson Yards, Papa San's timber-framed entry reveals a compact, energetic counter where steam rises in controlled drafts from the grill.

Focusing on rapid-fire freshness: crisp nori cylinders packed with warm koshihikari rice and chopped bluefin toro, charcoal-grilled chicken skewers brushed with tare, and chilled yuzu cucumber.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Papa San · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.08Joo Ok brings two-star Seoul to the sixteenth floor.From Japanese counters to Korean ones: the next chapter starts sixteen floors above 32nd Street.

Chapter 02

Koreatown, Upstairs

Korean cooking in Manhattan now runs from a $$ tofu house to two stars on the sixteenth floor. Same few blocks.

9 stories

Chapter partnerOpen · unsoldHow partnerships workOne labelled placement per chapter. No brand sponsors this issue; the slot is open.

Joo Ok brings two-star Seoul to the sixteenth floor.

Chef Shin Chang-ho’s tasting menu, perilla oil and aged jang included, is the only room in this chapter the guide rates at two stars.

Onggi jars in the dining room, sixteen floors above 32nd Street — Joo Ok
Joo Ok · KoreatownOnggi jars in the dining room, sixteen floors above 32nd Street.Photo: Joo Ok, via MICHELIN Guide

From the street, West 32nd Street is Koreatown at full volume: barbecue smoke, karaoke signs, late tables. Joo Ok is the same street with the sound turned down, sixteen floors up.

Rising above the Midtown grid to a serene private aerie, Joo Ok welcomes guests with custom Korean celadon tableware, crisp linens, and sweeping city vistas.

Chef Shin Chang-ho imports the soul of his two-star Seoul flagship: tastings of vintage perilla oils, seasonal raw sea bream with aged jang, and oak-charred Korean beef.

Meditative and dignified; service proceeds with measured grace as each dish unfolds the complex fermentation traditions of the Korean peninsula.

A course from the tasting menu — Joo Ok
Joo Ok · KoreatownA course from the tasting menu.Photo: Joo Ok, via MICHELIN Guide
A starter from the tasting menu — Joo Ok
Joo Ok · KoreatownA starter from the tasting menu.Photo: Joo Ok, via MICHELIN Guide

Holding two Michelin stars, Joo Ok's relocation to Manhattan represents a monumental milestone in the global appreciation of Korean fine dining.

  • Shin Chang-hoChef, Joo Ok

At a glance

  • Two MICHELIN Stars
  • Price band $$$$
  • Korean
  • 22 W. 32nd St., 16th Fl., New York
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Joo Ok (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.09Cote put the Korean grill in a steakhouse and kept both.Joo Ok is Korean cooking at its most formal. Cote, ten blocks south, made the Korean barbecue grill a one-star table.

Cote put the Korean grill in a steakhouse and kept both.

The Butcher’s Feast, dry-aged cuts over tabletop embers and a 1,200-label wine list on 22nd Street.

The bar under Cote’s neon — Cote
Cote · FlatironThe bar under Cote’s neon.Photo: Cote, via MICHELIN Guide

Passing beneath Cote's sleek dark canopy on 22nd Street, diners enter a high-octane dining room bathed in green neon accents, dark woods, and the enticing aroma of smokeless charcoal grills.

Proprietor Simon Kim and Chef David Shim anchor the menu with the legendary Butcher's Feast: 45-day dry-aged USDA Prime and American Wagyu seared over tabletop embers, accompanied by bubbling kimchi jjigae and egg soufflé.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Simon KimOwner, Cote
  • David ShimChef, Cote
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Cote (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.10Nōksu hides a starred counter in the subway.Cote is loud and celebratory. Nōksu, ten blocks north, is hidden in a subway corridor.

Nōksu hides a starred counter in the subway.

Behind a keypad door off the 34th Street station, twelve seats and a one-star menu.

From Nōksu’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Nōksu
Nōksu · Herald SquareFrom Nōksu’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Nōksu, via MICHELIN Guide

Hidden behind an unmarked keypad door inside the bustling 34th Street Herald Square subway station corridor, Nōksu shocks diners with a sleek, futuristic 12-seat black granite sanctuary.

Chef Dae Kim creates avant-garde magic: A5 Wagyu paired with fermented sea urchin sauce, steamed tilefish with scallion oil, and sourdough ice cream with toasted barley.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Dae KimChef, Nōksu
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Nōksu (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.11Kochi turns Korean skewers into a starred tasting menu.Nōksu is Korean cooking reimagined. Kochi and Mari, run by the same chef in Hell’s Kitchen, reimagine two street formats.

Kochi turns Korean skewers into a starred tasting menu.

Sungchul Shim’s nine skewer courses on Tenth Avenue.

From Kochi’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Kochi
Kochi · Hell’s KitchenFrom Kochi’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Kochi, via MICHELIN Guide

On Tenth Avenue in Hell's Kitchen, Kochi's narrow, wood-lined room draws diners into an intimate dining corridor animated by the glow of the yakitori hearth.

Chef Sungchul Shim reimagines traditional Korean skewers through royal court cuisine: skewered sea eel with gochujang glaze, pork belly with perilla chimichurri, and black truffle bibimbap.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Sungchul ShimChef, Kochi and Mari
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Kochi (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.12Mari makes the gimbap a one-star course.Shim did it once with skewers. At Mari, a block east, he does it again with handrolls.

Mari makes the gimbap a one-star course.

Warm nori cones passed hand to hand on Ninth Avenue, so the seaweed stays crisp.

From Mari’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Mari
Mari · Hell’s KitchenFrom Mari’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Mari, via MICHELIN Guide

Along a culinary stretch of Hell's Kitchen, Mari's blonde timber counter and soft floor-recessed lighting offer a sleek, calm retreat from the West Side avenues.

Chef Sungchul Shim's team hand-assembles warm nori cones: soy-marinated bluefin tuna with crispy kelp, sweet sea urchin with mountain herbs, and soft-cooked egg rice with winter truffles.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Sungchul ShimChef, Kochi and Mari
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Mari (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.13Cho Dang Gol still makes its own tofu.Kochi and Mari hold a star each. The briefs that follow are where Koreatown eats most nights.

Also in Koreatown

Next · p.17Café Carmellini brings back the grand hotel dining room.From Korean royal cuisine to the grandest rooms on the West Side: the next chapter is about the room itself.

Chapter 03

The Big Room

Some nights the room is the reason to go. Hotel dining rooms, sky-high glass and a Meatpacking steakhouse.

9 stories

Chapter partnerOpen · unsoldHow partnerships workOne labelled placement per chapter. No brand sponsors this issue; the slot is open.

Café Carmellini brings back the grand hotel dining room.

In the Fifth Avenue Hotel, Andrew Carmellini’s kitchen and tableside service revive a kind of New York night most restaurants gave up.

The dining room of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, with its sculptural trees — Café Carmellini
Café Carmellini · NoMadThe dining room of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, with its sculptural trees.Photo: Café Carmellini, via MICHELIN Guide

After a chapter of counters, a room built for the opposite: somewhere you sit back, not lean in. The MICHELIN Guide lists Café Carmellini at 250 Fifth Avenue, inside The Fifth Avenue Hotel, at $$$.

Stepping from Fifth Avenue into the Fifth Avenue Hotel, diners enter a soaring neoclassical dining room beneath 25-foot ceilings, crowned by monumental sculptural trees, warm amber glass chandeliers, and deep burgundy leather banquettes.

Chef Andrew Carmellini's kitchen operates with aristocratic precision: duck tortellini en brodo with fragrant rosemary oil, whole roast squab with foie gras, and turbot cooked in vin jaune with sweet winter leeks.

Tableside Gueridon service revives Manhattan's lost grand hotel dining rituals; captains decant rare Piedmontese Barolos while rolling silver domes reveal aromatic truffled reductions without rushed hospitality.

A silver cloche lifted at the table — Café Carmellini
Café Carmellini · NoMadA silver cloche lifted at the table.Photo: Café Carmellini, via MICHELIN Guide
A starter served in a copper pan — Café Carmellini
Café Carmellini · NoMadA starter served in a copper pan.Photo: Café Carmellini, via MICHELIN Guide

Anchoring NoMad's historic hotel row, Café Carmellini reclaims grand-manner New York dining for a modern generation, balancing vintage opulence with contemporary culinary lightness.

  • Andrew CarmelliniChef, Café Carmellini

At a glance

  • MICHELIN Guide selection
  • Price band $$$
  • Italian
  • The Fifth Avenue Hotel, 250 Fifth Ave., New York
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Café Carmellini · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.18Peak serves dinner on the 101st floor.Carmellini’s room looks back. Peak, 101 floors up at Hudson Yards, looks out.

Peak serves dinner on the 101st floor.

An express elevator, a glass-wrapped room over the Hudson, and halibut on the bone.

The dining room on the 101st floor — Peak
Peak · Hudson YardsThe dining room on the 101st floor.Photo: Peak, via MICHELIN Guide

Ascending to the 101st floor of 30 Hudson Yards via an express elevator, diners emerge into an awe-inspiring glass-wrapped aerie floating above Manhattan, overlooking the Hudson River and harbor.

The kitchen pairs architectural vertigo with refined Northeastern ingredients: Maine sea scallop crudo with green apple emulsion, roasted Atlantic halibut on the bone, and dry-aged Rohan duck breast.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Peak · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.19Hav & Mar paints the dining room.Peak is up high. Hav & Mar, down on Eleventh Avenue, fills its room with murals and colour instead.

Hav & Mar paints the dining room.

Marcus Samuelsson’s Chelsea room, with Derrick Adams murals and berbere brown butter.

The bar and dining room — Hav \u0026 Mar
Hav & Mar · ChelseaThe bar and dining room.Photo: Hav \u0026 Mar, via MICHELIN Guide

Anchored in Chelsea's gallery quarter near the High Line, Hav & Mar welcomes diners into an uplifting, color-drenched dining room animated by Derrick Adams' mermaid murals and hand-blown glass.

Marcus Samuelsson and the culinary team celebrate maritime heritage: black rice dashi risotto, roasted sea bass in berbere brown butter, and crispy plantain waffles with house-cured gravlax.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Marcus SamuelssonChef, Hav & Mar
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Hav \u0026 Mar · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.20Crane Club reopens the Meatpacking steakhouse.Hav & Mar celebrates. Crane Club, in Meatpacking, does old New York glamour.

Crane Club reopens the Meatpacking steakhouse.

Leather banquettes, a raw bar and dry-aged porterhouse over charcoal on Tenth Avenue.

From Crane Club’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Crane Club
Crane Club · MeatpackingFrom Crane Club’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Crane Club, via MICHELIN Guide

Set within a handsome industrial brick building in Meatpacking, Crane Club welcomes guests with deep leather banquettes, brass fixtures, and soaring warehouse timber beams.

A celebration of modern butchery: chilled seafood towers laden with Narragansett oysters and Maine lobster, dry-aged bone-in porterhouse steaks over charcoal, and silky pomme purée.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Crane Club · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.21The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse asks you to put the phone away.Crane Club is a party. Three blocks away, a dining room bans phones.

The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse asks you to put the phone away.

White oak, Murano crystal, rotisserie chicken and caviar, and a room built for conversation.

From The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse
The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse · MeatpackingFrom The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse, via MICHELIN Guide

Tucked inside the discreet residential RH Guesthouse in Meatpacking, the dining room glows with monumental European white oak, amber Murano crystal, and deep velvet banquettes.

Classic luxury executed with absolute precision: wood-grilled Australian Wagyu ribeye, live-carved rotisserie chicken in golden natural jus, and imperial Ossetra caviar over warm potato blinis.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · The Dining Room at RH Guesthouse · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.22Ci Siamo cooks Manhattan West over a live fire.The big rooms end here. The briefs carry on through the Italian and Thai rooms of the West Side.

Also worth the room

Next · p.26At Sonoratown, the tortilla is the tasting menu.Big rooms carry big bills. The next chapter is about tables priced so you come back.

Chapter 04

Priced to Return

The tables you can afford to make a habit of. Most are Bib Gourmands; all are $ or $$.

9 stories

Chapter partnerOpen · unsoldHow partnerships workOne labelled placement per chapter. No brand sponsors this issue; the slot is open.

At Sonoratown, the tortilla is the tasting menu.

Teodoro Diaz-Rodriguez and Jen Feltham cook the flour tortillas of San Luis Río Colorado on East 8th Street, and the guide gives the whole meal a single $.

Diners at the sidewalk tables on East 8th Street — Sonoratown
Sonoratown · Fashion DistrictDiners at the sidewalk tables on East 8th Street.Photo: Sonoratown, via MICHELIN Guide

This chapter starts in the guide’s lowest price band, a single $, with a line of people on the sidewalk to prove the point.

On 8th Street in the bustling Fashion District, Sonoratown's colorful storefront and open kitchen draw lines of diners following the intoxicating perfume of mesquite wood smoke.

Teodoro Diaz-Rodriguez and Jen Feltham celebrate San Luis Río Colorado: paper-thin flour tortillas made with heritage Sonora wheat and rendered lard, charred mesquite-grilled costilla beef, and spicy chiltepín salsa.

Casual, energetic, and joyous; the comal sizzles constantly as fresh tortillas puff up and chivichangas are wrapped with rapid speed for eager diners.

Tacos on flour tortillas, held up to the camera — Sonoratown
Sonoratown · Fashion DistrictTacos on flour tortillas, held up to the camera.Photo: Sonoratown, via MICHELIN Guide
Flour tortilla chivichangas, rolled and resting — Sonoratown
Sonoratown · Fashion DistrictFlour tortilla chivichangas, rolled and resting.Photo: Sonoratown, via MICHELIN Guide

Holding a Michelin Bib Gourmand, Sonoratown is an undisputed Los Angeles culinary treasure, proving that true flour tortilla mastery is an elite culinary art.

  • Teodoro Diaz-RodriguezCo-owner, Sonoratown
  • Jen FelthamCo-owner, Sonoratown

At a glance

  • Bib Gourmand
  • Price band $
  • Mexican
  • 208 E. 8th St., Los Angeles
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Sonoratown (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.27Pizzeria Bianco and a two-star counter share an address.Sonoratown sits in the guide’s lowest price band. Pizzeria Bianco shares its building with a restaurant in the highest.

Pizzeria Bianco and a two-star counter share an address.

Chris Bianco’s Rosa pie is a Bib Gourmand at 1320 E. 7th St. Hayato, rated two stars, is Suite 126 of the same building.

From Pizzeria Bianco Los Angeles’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Pizzeria Bianco Los Angeles
Pizzeria Bianco Los Angeles · Row DTLAFrom Pizzeria Bianco Los Angeles’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Pizzeria Bianco Los Angeles, via MICHELIN Guide

The MICHELIN Guide lists Pizzeria Bianco at 1320 E. 7th St., Los Angeles, at $$, and Hayato at 1320 E. 7th St., Ste. 126, at $$$$. Same building, both ends of the price scale.

Located in the historic manufacturing complex of Row DTLA, Chris Bianco's pizzeria opens into a sun-washed industrial room dominated by a roaring wood-fired oven.

Legendary pizza perfection: naturally fermented dough blistered over wood fire, the Rosa pizza topped with red onion, rosemary, and local Santa Barbara pistachios, and the Wiseguy with smoked mozzarella and fennel sausage.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Chris BiancoPizzaiolo, Pizzeria Bianco
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Pizzeria Bianco Los Angeles (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.28Tonchin is a Bib Gourmand at a single $.Back to New York for the same argument in a ramen bowl.

Tonchin is a Bib Gourmand at a single $.

Tokyo-style tonkotsu, noodles rolled daily and a room that clatters near Herald Square.

From Tonchin’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Tonchin
Tonchin · Herald SquareFrom Tonchin’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Tonchin, via MICHELIN Guide

Near Herald Square, Tonchin's warm timber slats, exposed brick, and glowing paper lanterns hum with the energetic clatter of ramen bowls and steaming cauldrons.

The kitchen's pride is rich Tokyo-style tonkotsu broth simmered for over twelve hours with smoked dashi and pork bone, paired with house-made wavy noodles rolled daily and charred chashu belly.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Tonchin (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.29Peppercorn Station does not tone down the heat.Tonchin is Tokyo on West 36th. Peppercorn Station, three blocks up, is Chengdu.

Peppercorn Station does not tone down the heat.

Chongqing chicken, mapo tofu and boiled fish in chili oil near Bryant Park, at $$.

From Peppercorn Station’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Peppercorn Station
Peppercorn Station · Bryant ParkFrom Peppercorn Station’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Peppercorn Station, via MICHELIN Guide

Near Bryant Park, Peppercorn Station's bright dining room hums with the unmistakable, intoxicating perfume of toasted Sichuan peppercorns, dried chilies, and smoking woks.

Uncompromising regional Sichuan firepower: numbing Chongqing spicy chicken with mountain chili pods, mapo tofu with hand-ground Hanyuan peppercorns, and boiled fish in fragrant chili oil.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Peppercorn Station (2025 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.30Tsubaki is Echo Park’s neighbourhood izakaya.Two New York Bibs in a row. Across the country, Tsubaki does the same for sake and skewers.

Tsubaki is Echo Park’s neighbourhood izakaya.

Charles Namba and Courtney Kaplan’s chawanmushi, skewers and a sake list worth the trip.

From Tsubaki’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Tsubaki
Tsubaki · Echo ParkFrom Tsubaki’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Tsubaki, via MICHELIN Guide

Just off Sunset Boulevard in Echo Park, Tsubaki's warm neon sign and wood-slatted facade open into a bustling, energetic room humming with indie music and grill aromas.

Chef Charles Namba and partner Courtney Kaplan deliver soulful Tokyo pub cooking: silky steamed chawanmushi with sweet corn, crispy chicken oysters on skewers, and grilled rice balls with shiso.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Charles NambaChef, Tsubaki
  • Courtney KaplanPartner and sake director, Tsubaki
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Tsubaki (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.31Grá makes Historic Filipinotown a pizza stop.The chapter ends in numbers: what the guide’s own price bands say about the fifty listed rooms in this issue.

Priced to return, in numbers

Priced to returnChart 01

Only 10 of the 50 rooms in this issue are priced $ or $$

Rooms in this issue by the MICHELIN Guide’s own price band, New York and Los Angeles, number of restaurants

20%of the issue’s rooms sit in the two lowest price bandsDerived: 10 ÷ 50 = 0.20
$2
$$8
$$$11
$$$$29

Restaurants in this issue

Source: MICHELIN Guide restaurant listings for the 50 rooms in this issue, checked Sep 28, 2026

This is Dine Digest’s selection, not the whole guide. Price bands are the guide’s symbols, not menu prices; New York listings cite the 2025 USA guide and Los Angeles listings the 2026 guide.

View values as a table
GroupRestaurants
$2
$$8
$$$11
$$$$29

Stars and BibsChart 02

Every starred room here is $$$$; 9 of 9 Bib Gourmands are $ or $$

Rooms in this issue by MICHELIN distinction, New York and Los Angeles, number of restaurants

15/15starred rooms in the top price bandDerived: 15 of 15 starred listings show $$$$
Two MICHELIN Stars5
One MICHELIN Star10
Bib Gourmand9
Selected, no star or Bib26

Restaurants in this issue

Source: MICHELIN Guide restaurant listings for the 50 rooms in this issue, checked Sep 28, 2026

“Selected” means listed and recommended by the guide without a star or Bib Gourmand. One restaurant in this issue, Le Comptoir, has no current listing and is not counted.

View values as a table
GroupRestaurants
Two MICHELIN Stars5
One MICHELIN Star10
Bib Gourmand9
Selected, no star or Bib26

Also priced to return

Next · p.35Hayato gives a long dinner a clear shape.From downtown’s cheap tables to its most exacting counters: the next chapter starts at Hayato, in Pizzeria Bianco’s building.

Chapter 05

Little Tokyo & Row

Downtown Los Angeles’ counters, from Little Tokyo basements to the Row DTLA warehouses.

8 stories

Chapter partnerOpen · unsoldHow partnerships workOne labelled placement per chapter. No brand sponsors this issue; the slot is open.

Hayato gives a long dinner a clear shape.

Brandon Go’s seven seats, no recorded music and a kaiseki menu the guide rates at two stars.

A course from the kaiseki menu — Hayato
Hayato · Row DTLAA course from the kaiseki menu.Photo: Hayato, via MICHELIN Guide

Hayato is Suite 126 of 1320 E. 7th St., the same building as Pizzeria Bianco in the previous chapter. The walk between them is short; the price bands, $$ and $$$$, are as far apart as the guide goes.

Behind a minimalist noren curtain at Row DTLA, Master Brandon Go welcomes just seven guests per evening to a single immaculate Japanese hinoki cypress counter.

Kaiseki pacing unfolds with meditative stillness: wild binchotan-grilled amadai with crisp edible scales, delicate lotus root dumplings floating in dashi extracted from aged Rishiri kelp, and sweet Dungeness crab served in its carapace.

The room is devoid of recorded music, animated only by the whisper of water simmering in iron kettles, the rhythmic tap of Japanese sashimi knives, and Go's thoughtful explanations of historical tea ceremony dining.

Broth poured at the counter — Hayato
Hayato · Row DTLABroth poured at the counter.Photo: Hayato, via MICHELIN Guide
A kaiseki course in a painted bowl — Hayato
Hayato · Row DTLAA kaiseki course in a painted bowl.Photo: Hayato, via MICHELIN Guide

Holding two Michelin stars, Hayato is widely revered as the most authentic translation of Kyoto kaiseki discipline anywhere in the Western Hemisphere.

  • Brandon GoChef, Hayato

At a glance

  • Two MICHELIN Stars
  • Price band $$$$
  • Japanese
  • 1320 E. 7th St., Ste. 126, Los Angeles
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Hayato (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.36Kato cooks proud, precise and Taiwanese.Hayato is Japanese at two stars. Kato, a few blocks away at Row DTLA, is Taiwanese at two stars.

Kato cooks proud, precise and Taiwanese.

Jon Yao’s two-star tasting menu and one of the country’s most ambitious non-alcoholic pairings.

From Kato’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Kato
Kato · Row DTLAFrom Kato’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Kato, via MICHELIN Guide

Located within the sprawling industrial architecture of Row DTLA, Kato's entrance opens into a moody, cavernous room of poured concrete, dark walnut, and dramatic pin-spot illumination.

Chef Jon Yao and his brigade craft a dazzling modern Taiwanese tasting menu: A5 Wagyu with sweet Taiwanese barbecue glaze, buttermilk pudding topped with golden caviar and smoked geoduck, and coal-roasted black cod.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Jon YaoChef, Kato
  • Ryan BaileyBeverage director, Kato
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Kato (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.37Sushi Kaneyoshi is a basement worth finding.Row DTLA done; into Little Tokyo, where the best counters are downstairs.

Sushi Kaneyoshi is a basement worth finding.

Yoshiyuki Inoue’s one-star counter under East 1st Street.

From Sushi Kaneyoshi’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Sushi Kaneyoshi
Sushi Kaneyoshi · Little TokyoFrom Sushi Kaneyoshi’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Sushi Kaneyoshi, via MICHELIN Guide

Hidden in the basement of a nondescript Little Tokyo building, Sushi Kaneyoshi reveals an austere, museum-grade wooden counter carved from Japanese cypress.

Chef Yoshiyuki Inoue commands an elite sushi pilgrimage: pristine fish flown directly from Tokyo's Toyosu Market, dry-aged for weeks, and served on bespoke Japanese ceramic stoneware.

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  • Yoshiyuki InoueChef, Sushi Kaneyoshi
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Sushi Kaneyoshi (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.38Restaurant Ki reads Korean heritage through California produce.Kaneyoshi is Edomae. Restaurant Ki, around the corner on San Pedro Street, is Korean.

Restaurant Ki reads Korean heritage through California produce.

A one-star counter on San Pedro Street where chefs explain each fermentation.

From Restaurant Ki’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Restaurant Ki
Restaurant Ki · Little TokyoFrom Restaurant Ki’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Restaurant Ki, via MICHELIN Guide

On San Pedro Street in Little Tokyo, Restaurant Ki's clean architectural facade leads to a minimalist counter setting bathed in natural light and light cedar.

Translating Korean culinary heritage through modern Southern California produce: seasonal raw catches with aged vinegars, grilled duck with fermented chili glazes, and heirloom rice broths.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Restaurant Ki (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.39At Q Sushi, the rice is already seasoned.From Little Tokyo to 7th Street, where Q Sushi asks you to leave the soy sauce alone.

At Q Sushi, the rice is already seasoned.

Hiroyuki Naruke’s Edomae counter on West 7th Street, with no soy sauce on the table.

From Q Sushi’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Q Sushi
Q Sushi · DowntownFrom Q Sushi’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Q Sushi, via MICHELIN Guide

On 7th Street in DTLA, Q Sushi's dark slatted exterior opens into a serene, minimalist sanctuary stripped of all distraction except for the pristine hinoki counter.

Master Hiroyuki Naruke practices the purest ancient Edomae methods: strict no-soy-sauce rule at the table, fish aged with precise salt and kelp curing, and warm red-vinegar shari.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Hiroyuki NarukeChef, Q Sushi
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Q Sushi (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.40Sushi Takeda keeps Little Tokyo’s classical line.Three more counters, briefly, before we cross into the Arts District.

Also at downtown counters

Next · p.43Baroo puts fermentation in the foreground.From counters to long tables: the last chapter is the Arts District, where most of downtown’s big nights now happen.

Chapter 06

The Arts District Table

Warehouse doors, courtyards and long tables: the part of downtown L.A. built for a big night out.

9 stories

Chapter partnerOpen · unsoldHow partnerships workOne labelled placement per chapter. No brand sponsors this issue; the slot is open.

Baroo puts fermentation in the foreground.

Kwang Uh and Mina Park cook Korean temple and fermentation traditions at a long, low counter on East 2nd Street.

The dining room in afternoon light — Baroo
Baroo · Arts DistrictThe dining room in afternoon light.Photo: Baroo, via MICHELIN Guide

The Koreatown chapter began sixteen floors above Manhattan. This one begins with a Korean kitchen at street level in Los Angeles, where the onggi crocks sit on the pass for everyone to see.

In a minimalist concrete and blonde-timber sanctuary in the DTLA Arts District, Baroo opens with rows of hand-thrown Korean ceramic onggi crocks lining the open kitchen pass.

Husband-and-wife chefs Kwang Uh and Mina Park translate ancient Buddhist temple cooking and deep Korean fermentation: multi-grain nuruk porridges, yellow squash aged with wild koji, and tidal seaweed broths carrying profound savory umami.

Guests sit along a wide, low dining counter where courses are plated like botanical compositions, accompanied by house-fermented kombuchas, cloudy natural makgeollis, and low-intervention California wines.

A grain course under a nest of dried grasses — Baroo
Baroo · Arts DistrictA grain course under a nest of dried grasses.Photo: Baroo, via MICHELIN Guide
A course from the tasting menu — Baroo
Baroo · Arts DistrictA course from the tasting menu.Photo: Baroo, via MICHELIN Guide

Baroo stands as Los Angeles's intellectual and emotional culinary conscience, reminding diners that time, wild microbes, and culinary patience are the ultimate luxuries.

  • Kwang UhChef, Baroo
  • Mina ParkChef, Baroo

At a glance

  • MICHELIN Guide selection
  • Price band $$$$
  • Korean Contemporary
  • 905 E. 2nd St., #109, Los Angeles
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Baroo · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.44Bestia still runs the loudest pass in the Arts District.Baroo is patient. Bestia, a few blocks east, is the loudest room in the district, and the one that started it.

Bestia still runs the loudest pass in the Arts District.

Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis’s bone marrow gnocchetti, salumi and wood-fired pizza, more than a decade in.

From Bestia’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Bestia
Bestia · Arts DistrictFrom Bestia’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Bestia, via MICHELIN Guide

Down a graffiti-lined alley in the industrial edge of the Arts District, Bestia's heavy warehouse doors open into a roaring, high-decibel dining hall filled with reclaimed brick and pipe fixtures.

Chefs Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis ignite the dining room with visceral Italian cooking: roasted bone marrow tossed with spinach gnocchetti, house-cured salumi platters, and pizzas charred in the wood-burning oven.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Ori MenasheChef, Bestia
  • Genevieve GergisPastry chef, Bestia
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Bestia (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.45Damian opens a tropical courtyard behind warehouse walls.Bestia is across the street from Damian. Literally: 2121 and 2132 E. 7th Pl.

Damian opens a tropical courtyard behind warehouse walls.

Enrique Olvera’s duck carnitas, clam aguachile and a courtyard under banana palms.

From Damian’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Damian
Damian · Arts DistrictFrom Damian’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Damian, via MICHELIN Guide

Hidden behind industrial warehouse walls in the DTLA Arts District, Damian reveals an intoxicating open-air tropical courtyard shaded by banana palms and industrial steel beams.

From Chef Enrique Olvera and team, Mexican heritage meets California produce: hibachi-grilled duck carnitas with heirloom corn tortillas, clam ceviche with serrano aguachile, and the iconic charred corn husk meringue.

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  • Enrique OlveraChef, Damian
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Damian · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.46Manuela eats inside an art gallery.Damian’s courtyard is for dinner. Manuela’s, a short walk away, sits inside an art gallery.

Manuela eats inside an art gallery.

Cornbread, wood-roasted chicken and biscuits in the Hauser & Wirth courtyard.

From Manuela’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Manuela
Manuela · Arts DistrictFrom Manuela’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Manuela, via MICHELIN Guide

Set inside the sprawling Hauser & Wirth art gallery complex in the Arts District, Manuela occupies an open-air courtyard framed by brick murals, herb gardens, and chicken coops.

Southern heritage cooking driven by on-site gardens and local farms: cast-iron cornbread with honey butter, wood-roasted heritage chicken, and fresh cream biscuits with house jam.

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Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Manuela · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.47Orsa & Winston keeps one chef’s voice at one star.From the district’s gallery to its most singular chef: Josef Centeno, on West 4th Street.

Orsa & Winston keeps one chef’s voice at one star.

Josef Centeno’s thirty seats, where Italian and Japanese cooking meet.

From Orsa \u0026 Winston’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing — Orsa \u0026 Winston
Orsa \u0026 Winston · DowntownFrom Orsa \u0026 Winston’s gallery on its MICHELIN Guide listing.Photo: Orsa \u0026 Winston, via MICHELIN Guide

On 4th Street in downtown LA, Orsa & Winston's understated brick facade opens into a cozy, 30-seat room lined with warm timber and a calm open kitchen counter.

Chef Josef Centeno weaves Italian and Japanese traditions together: satsuki rice porridge with sea urchin and geoduck, handmade pasta with shaved truffles, and charcoal-grilled Japanese beef.

Continue on the story’s own page: two more paragraphs, the listing and the sources →

  • Josef CentenoChef, Orsa & Winston
Sources 1
  1. MICHELIN Guide · Orsa \u0026 Winston (2026 USA) · checked Sep 28, 2026

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Next · p.48kodō grills over binchotan on Santa Fe Avenue.Four more Arts District tables, briefly, and then the last word.

Also at the table

Le Comptoir made the garden part of the counter.

Gary Menes’s ten-seat, vegetable-led counter in Koreatown, cooked from his Long Beach garden. Its MICHELIN listing no longer resolves, so we could not confirm it for this issue.

Source: listing unavailable · Photo: Le Comptoir made the garden part of the counter., via MICHELIN Guide

Next month in Dine Digest

Keep a seat for October.

One issue a month, free: the rooms worth the trip, the tables worth the habit, and the price of each before you book.

Stories
51
Photographs
64
Charts
2
Sources
51

Dine Digest is an independent publication. No restaurant paid to appear. Stories are written by the Dine Digest desk from the public sources linked under each piece; photographs belong to the credited restaurants and remain under rights review. Listings checked Sep 28, 2026. Chapter partner slots are open and unsold; no brand in this issue is a sponsor.